Why All The Dead Fish?!

Something concerning is happening in Salalah's waters. The fish are dying and nobody seems to know why. 

I first heard about dead fish floating around Raysut fishing port around 10 days ago. Subsequently, I heard of dead fish, baby sharks and eels washing up around the beach near the Hilton. Initially I thought nothing of it - assuming they were by-catch or discards.  Sadly it seems to be common practice here for fishermen to throw what they don't want from their catch onto the beach rather than back into the sea.  It has become clear, however, that what is going on just now is an entirely different, and unexplained, phenomenon. 

I went to take a look for myself a couple of days ago and found that the beach in Raysut was absolutely covered in dead fish. Similarly, the surface of the water was dotted with bloated, silvery carcasses.  It was a similar story in front of the Hilton (though to a lesser extent).  

Rumours are rife and there has been much speculation as to what is going on, but I have yet to come across a plausible explanation.  Some are claiming it's a natural phenomenon - talking about oxygen deprivation and the effects of khareef on water temperatures and currents. To me this doesn't ring true. Khareef is an annual occurrence in this part of the world and I know people who've lived here more than a decade who've never seen anything like this before.  Furthermore, why would the 'death zone' be isolated to the Raysut/Port/Hilton area (which it mostly appears to be)?

Dead fish at Raysut

Another reason (given by Hilton hotel staff I believe) is that a fishing vessel overturned.  There are a couple of reasons why this doesn't add up.  Firstly, sources at Salalah Port have told me that they haven't heard of any such incident (and basically, anything bigger than a small, local boat, they would know about).  Secondly, fish are continuing to die more than 10 days later. How could that be if they'd all just tipped into the ocean from a boat?  When I went to Raysut there were fish in varying stages of decay. Some had clearly been dead a long time, whilst others were relatively fresh, and some were still alive - flapping and gasping for breath in the surf.  These were not healthy fish. I tried to throw some of them back into deeper water but they seemed unable to swim - tilting onto their sides and being thrown back up the beach in the waves.

I am no expert and any reasons I give are also pure speculation. All I do know is that something is very wrong - it's clear to see.  Salalah has a lot of industry, especially in this area, and it concerns me that there may have been some kind of leak (oil, fuel, chemicals? who knows?).  Either way, surely there has to be some kind of investigation. Has the water been tested? If there is any kind of contaminant then people have a right to know, and action needs to be taken to minimise the environmental impact.  For now, fishing continues as normal, but who can say if the fish are safe to eat?  I have heard some reports of dead seabirds but I haven't seen any for myself.  I can't know if this is related or not and, if so, whether they were killed by whatever killed the fish, or died as a result of eating the fish. 

To the best of my knowledge, there has been no reporting on this issue.  If anyone knows otherwise, or has any information at all, then please do get in touch.

Fishermen heading out in a sea of dead fish

Masirah Turtle Adventure!

A version of this article appeared in the Oman Observer on 12th September 2012

Recently I had the opportunity to spend a couple of weeks on the island of Masirah, volunteering on a turtle project. When I was contacted about it, I first had to look up exactly where Masirah was, and how to get there.  Surprisingly for somewhere with so much to boast about, the island is still relatively unknown.  With a small population centred in the town of Hilf, and accessible only by a 1.5 – 2 hour ferry journey from the mainland (and a long drive depending on your point of origin), Masirah remains somewhat inaccessible.   That is something to be grateful for and probably the island’s saving grace, for Masirah is much more than just a sleepy Omani outpost, the island is of real global significance as it is home to arguably the largest population of nesting loggerhead turtles in the world.  This is no small accolade and one that is not without responsibility.  Nature has blessed Masirah with four species of nesting marine turtle (loggerhead, green, hawksbill and olive ridley) and Oman must recognise and fulfill its duty to do everything in its power to protect these endangered species.

Masirah is still, thankfully, relatively unspoilt, but nonetheless human actions are already causing significant threats to the turtles, and this is only likely to worsen as increasing development takes place. 

Nature is already tough on turtles before man-made problems are even taken into account.   Turtle hatchlings have an incredibly difficult start in life and, witnessing at first-hand their battle to emerge from their nests and reach the ocean, it can be hard to imagine how any survive into adulthood at all.  

As a scuba diver I am used to seeing turtles underwater – where they move swiftly and with graceful ease.  Seeing them on land is a different experience entirely. It’s so abundantly clear how difficult the journey is for them. The large, heavy females drag their bodies up the beach in search of a suitable nesting spot, and many cover huge, exhausting distances before they even begin the process of digging, laying and covering their nests, before heading back to the sea. 

Here, at a new nest, the circle of life begins (or ends prematurely, depending on circumstance).  Turtle eggs are hugely vulnerable to predation by numerous animals, and humans have also been known to harvest eggs for consumption.  Furthermore, nests that are close to the shore can become water submerged causing the eggs to rot.  For those that survive to full-term, their troubles have only just begun.  The hatchlings have to dig their way out, orientate themselves and run the gauntlet of seagulls and crabs to reach the ocean.  Make no mistake - the seagulls and crabs on Masirah are vicious and plentiful - and nature has not been kind to hatchlings, making them a colour that is camouflaged neither on land nor in water.  For those that make it to the ocean currents, a whole host of new predators awaits and only very few will survive to reach an age where they can reproduce and begin the process again.  Loggerhead turtles (which are most abundant on Masirah) are deemed to have reached sexual maturity when their carapace (the hard shell) reaches a length of 90 cm or more.  Unbelievably, this can take up to 35 years!

Whilst nature might appear to have given turtles a raw deal, it is all part of the larger eco system, and the low turtle survival rates have been balanced out by the sheer number of eggs laid by individual turtles (100+).  Unfortunately though, that delicate balance is being destroyed by avoidable human actions that are putting the survival of the world’s sea turtles at serious risk.

dead turtle lost far from the ocean

In just the short time I was there, I witnessed a number of troubling incidents which raised concern over just how many turtles are dying needlessly. One adult female turtle was caught in a fishing net abandoned on the beach (2 of her flippers had become entangled). Luckily we were able to free her and she made her way back to the ocean. We also found a hatchling, which looked like it was emerging from a nest, but on closer inspection had become entangled in some plastic cord which was preventing it from moving. Again, on this occasion, we were fortunately able to save it.  In the space of 2 weeks I also saw three dead adult turtles on the beach. Following their tracks, the most likely explanation seemed to be that they got lost.  This is a common problem which can occur due to light pollution which plays havoc with a turtle’s internal navigation system. Turtles normally rely on natural light from the moon to help guide them to the sea, but artificial light can cause them to inadvertently navigate towards the source of that light, finding themselves lost far from the ocean.  Lost turtles will quickly dehydrate and die once the sun comes up.  On one evening we also witnessed a 4x4 parked on the beach right next to an adult female turtle, with its full-beam headlights pointing directly at her.  Whilst this may have seemed like an enjoyable outing for the occupants of the car, for the turtle it was a life-threatening experience.  As soon as we approached, the car sped off, but at least we were able to ensure the turtle found her way back to the water.  It makes me wonder how often this kind of selfish act goes by unnoticed.

turtle trapped in fishing line

another turtle life extinguished :-(

Turtles are officially protected in Oman by Royal Decree (which is great news), but the problem of course lies with awareness and enforcement.  I only saw one sign on the whole of Masirah with instructions for visitors to the turtle nesting beaches.  Whilst the content was good, the sign was falling apart and, with only one of them, how many people would happen to see it?  Anyhow, prohibiting people from doing certain things isn’t in itself useful unless there are consequences for those that disobey.  Whilst restricting access to the beaches would undoubtedly be unpopular with locals, it really does seem like a necessity if the turtles are to have a secure future.  Some simple fencing could prevent vehicle access and also stop the turtles straying into the road, whilst still leaving beaches open to the public.  The existing tar road already runs very close by the beach, along with several graded tracks. There really is no need for people to drive right down to the surf! 

visitor information sign

Masirah is a rugged island of exceptional natural beauty with a turtle population to be extremely proud of.  It is also home to an impressive number of bird species, including the endangered Egyptian vulture.  As is common to many island communities, the residents of Masirah seem closely bonded and somehow different to their mainland counterparts.  There is huge potential for eco-tourism on the island, but the prospect of it terrifies me as it has the scope to cause enormous and irrevocable damage unless it is extremely well managed.  Already there is a new luxury hotel on Masirah, and continued development in the name of ‘progress’ is likely.  The Masirah Island Resort, to be fair to it, is much more understated and low key than I expected, and their lighting (for a hotel) is very minimal.  I was also impressed to see information displays about turtles and other island wildlife in its lobby (something Ras Al Jinz could take note of).  Unfortunately though, and despite these efforts, the nearby turtles will still likely be adversely effected by the existence of the hotel.  I witnessed the effects at first-hand whilst assisting with a study on the impact of artificial light on turtle hatchlings.  Whilst data has not yet been analysed or reported, it was clear to see that the majority of hatchlings released on beaches in the vicinity of artifical light (streetlights, building light etc.) travelled towards the source of that light and hence away from the sea.  

Could We Grow Fruit Trees in the Omani Desert?!

Well, if a certain Dutch inventor is to be believed, then the answer is a resounding yes - and we could do so without irrigation!

Pieter Hoff is the founder of a company that has pioneered a planting technology called Groasis. Yesterday he was in Salalah to give a presentation at Dhofar University and introduce the concept to us.

Mr. Hoff began by talking about the global problem of depletion of groundwater reserves. He stated that 4 countries in the world have no groundwater at all. He didn't say which countries these were, but if that statistic is true then it is truly shocking.  He also went on to talk about how groundwater is becoming contaminated with salt water (an issue which apparently exists here in Oman).  With this shortage of water and a growing population (expected to hit 10 billion in the next 25-35 years) he concluded that there needed to be a way for agriculture to use less water.  It was this thinking that led him to develop the 'waterboxx'.  

Mr. Hoff pointed out that, in nature, trees can and do grow in the desert and in rocky areas. Anyone who has visited the desert here will know this to be true. In other words, there is enough rainfall in the desert to sustain plant life.  The problem isn't actually the quantity of rainfall (more rain falls in the desert than we imagine) but the fact that it all falls in a very short time period (perhaps 2 weeks).  Seeds therefore germinate when the rain falls, but then everything dries up and the young plants die.  Without getting too scientific, Mr. Hoff's 'waterboxx' is a bio-mimicry technology - in other words it copies how Mother Nature solves the problem of growing trees in desert regions. The waterboxx assists the tree through the planting period until it can reach natural water and self-sustain. A lot of this is to do with having the right kind of roots (called primary roots) which allow a plant to break through hard ground (even rock) to reach water.  Mr. Hoff explained this very well, but I suspect I'm failing to! Anyone wishing to understand the subject better would be well advised to look at the website!

Overall, the technology came across as simple yet clever and, importantly, affordable. No irrigation is necessary and it appears to have an excellent success rate, judging by existing projects in various countries around the world.  In future there are also plans to make the waterboxxes from cellulose material. In a country like Oman, that would mean being able to make the system from readily available materials like palm leaves.

Whilst Groasis is evidently a business and Mr. Hoff will of course have a vested interest in its success, I really found his argument to be very persuasive.  If this technology works and is adopted it could have multiple positive effects - reduced reliance on groundwater, reforestation of desert areas, food production and a reduction in carbon dioxide emissions due to an increase in trees. It seems like a very good result.  Interestingly, a planting experiment using this technology has already taken place in Sohar Free Zone. I don't know when it was initiated, but it would certainly be of interest to know how it is proceeding.

Incidentally, I should say that I am in no way affiliated to the company - I just found the product to be very interesting and thought you might too! 

Mr. Hoff says that his dream is to replant the 2 billion hectares of land that man has cut over the last 2000 years. I wish him every success!

Groasis planting experiment at Sohar Free Zone, Oman.     

    

 Image reproduced from http://www.groasis.com/en/photos/photoalbum/oman

Volunteer to plant trees in Salalah!!

To mark Earth Day on 22nd April, several tree planting events are taking place in Salalah. The events will see native trees (including frankincense) planted in a number of locations. Everyone is welcome, and encouraged, to join in.  Details are as follows:

Sunday 22nd April: 8am - College of Applied Science, Salalah

Monday 23rd April: 8am - Frankincense Park, Adoneb

Monday 23rd - Wednesday 25th April: 8am - Rakhyout, Dhalkout, Al Mazyoona 

If you would like to take part, please confirm your participation to:

Mohammed Al Mashani (for Frankincense Park event): 92866643
Mr Majed Akaak (for other events): 95340050

Happy Planting! :-) 

Boswellia Sacra (frankincense tree)

Earth Hour & Apathy

Tomorrow, 31st March 2012, marks 'Earth Hour' - the global initiative organised by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) to encourage people across the world to switch off their lights for an hour.  The first Earth Hour took place in Australia in 2007 and over the following years has expanded to include participation by millions of people across 135 countries. Here in Oman the event has been championed by ESO, with landmark buildings like the Royal Opera House Muscat agreeing to dim their lights between 8.30 - 9.30pm.


Earth Hour is designed to raise awareness of sustainability issues and to send a message for action on climate change.  Whilst I'm all for raising awareness, we have to ensure that that awareness leads to real action and change.  My concern is that initiatives like Earth Hour actually allow a lot of people to simply feel like they've done their bit. It assuages their guilty conscience and they carry on as normal until next year. One hour, annually, of turning out the lights is not going to make any difference.  People need to live the changes. A token gesture is not enough.  I personally will not be taking part in Earth Hour. Not in protest and not because I would find it difficult to sit by candlelight for an hour, but simply because I don't believe that me switching everything off for an hour changes anything. I prefer to be aware of my energy usage every day and to do my best to save resources at all times.


I don't mean to denigrate those who do take part, and I do think awareness raising is crucial, but I do want to make it clear that people need to do so much more.  It often feels to me like I am surrounded by complete apathy.  So many people talk a lot but so few are willing to actually do anything.  Whilst social media can be a powerful networking tool, it seems also to have bred a generation of people who think that by Facebook 'liking' something they have made a difference. They may, in some abstract way, be showing their support for a cause, but they're changing absolutely nothing.  The petition to stop Lulu selling sharks is a case in point. Many people 'liked' the link to it on Facebook but didn't actually sign it! I don't care about being 'liked', I care about making a difference - and so should you!

On that note, Happy Earth Hour and, remember, "Be the change you wish to see in the world..."

Clean Up Oman - this weekend! 29th March!

This weekend (Thursday 29th March) will see Oman's biggest ever clean-up taking place nationwide! Here in Dhofar there will be 4 clean-up teams at the following places:

• Al Dahariz Beach, Salalah
• Next to Municipality Playground, Taqa
• East of Fisheries Harbour, Mirbat
• Next to the Mosque in Town Centre, Maqshan

Start time is 4.30pm. Please go along and help out and spread the word to your friends/family and colleagues.  This should be a fun event which will also raise much needed awareness of the problem of littering. Water, T-shirts and bin-bags will be provided to participants and the Municipality rubbish trucks will be there to collect the bin bags at the end.

 

To find out about other locations across Oman check out the Oman Clean Up group on facebook.

Sea Legends - Shark Expedition

I would like to extend a very warm welcome to Sea Legends, who are currently in Salalah as part of a 3-week long shark expedition.  The team is made up of a very driven, committed and passionate group of volunteers who have come together over a common cause - to protect Oman's sharks and to explore sustainable alternatives to fishing.  Over the coming weeks, this team of divers, activists & cameramen will be documenting shark fishing across Oman and its influence on fishing communities and the local economy.  You can follow their progress on facebook and also read more in this interview with Avi Bernstein - a marine protection activist and one of the core team members.  The expedition is only in its infancy, but already shocking images are emerging of scores of dead bull sharks (including pregnant ones), endangered hammerheads and eagle rays.  I wish these guys every success and the best of luck, and I sincerely hope that Oman wakes up to this issue before it is too late.  It is easy to be overwhelmed by the sheer scale of the problem here, but it is also inspirational to be around people who care enough to self-fund and undertake a project like this.  I urge you to show your support!  The image below was taken this morning in Salalah fish market where over 50 dead baby sharks were seen, including endangered scalloped hammerheads!

Photo courtesy of Sea Legends